Day One: Copenhagen to Køge 51.2km
Life is an adventure. If you stop exploring, life stops!
Have you ever been on a road trip? They are the best. Driving across the country, soaking in the culture, tasting everything the world has to offer, peeling back your mind’s eye and losing it to the hypnotic and breathtaking surroundings. No real plans, nothing booked in advance, just a start and a destination, a point to point. No rules, no time restrictions, and no way of getting lost. They are the best.
Now try this on a bicycle! We did!
In the winter in 2023, over frozen kilometers, we start talking over the possibilities of taking our two wheeled adventures international. The more we talked about the possibilities, the more excited we became. Our Welsh hearts beat in time – much like Tom Jones’ hips in the 70’s.
The destination choice of Copenhagen was an easy one. We could quite easily fly to the home capital of the nation’s treasure, Jonas Vingegaard, and of course Bjarne Riis, and with it the most populous city in Denmark, our minds were made up.
Copenhagen is a city where everyone is born rolling on 2 wheels.
The planning was easy; just leave Cliff with his Prince2 to do all the research and sit there like the Churchill nodding dog with a monkey in my pocket!
Never turn down a good time! #NTDAGT
Cliff even managed to wangle us into the airport lounge, but of course, no sooner than we entered the lounge, we were quickly ushered to the less-family-friendly room, where everything was self-service and free pouring, a potentially dangerous combination.
In the spring of May 2024, we flew into Copenhagen, Denmark, to embark on what turned out to be a “dream holiday”
The flight was eventful, the edges were smoothed out with a couple of beers and we got lost in conversation, right before we got lost in Copenhagen! As we landed, we confidently navigated our way to the city centre, only we got on the wrong train; heading in the wrong direction. But it’s a road trip. and you’re supposed to get lost, right?
After realising our mistakes, we quickly disembarked at the next stop and discovered a local bakery, a local pastry, and a local beer.
When in Rome do as the Romans do!
We found our bearings… or so we thought, and after a second failed train ride, we found ourselves in the most delicious market with its very own schnapps bar. Well, it would be rude not to – “two, please.”
After a few tasty false starts, we finally arrived at the only pre-booked accommodation for the entire trip. The compact Cabinn City hotel in the heart of the city: a great location that met our primitive needs perfectly.
It’s these impromptu visits that set the tone for the rest of the day; leading to a tipsy visit to the awesome Tivoli Gardens, trying every thrill seeker available, and a few kids rides. No fear!
Tivoli Gardens, an amusement park and pleasure garden in the beating heart of Copenhagen, and is an essential visit for all ages. It’s a seasonal attraction, so remember to check the opening times. Many things are closed until March.
Jernbanecafeen – Beer challenge reluctantly dodged !!
Having left the remains of our lunch 30m in the air, we say steak tartare to Tivoli and it was time to grab a beer, A short walk from the gardens on the opposite side of the main railway station we stumbled upon the Jernbanecafeen. A quirky and packed out vintage bar serving a vast array of Danish beer the selection was simply staggering. Jernbanecafeen translated to “The Railway cafe” however given the close proximity and the decor you wouldn’t need to refer to google translate. The bar is tastefully decorated with railway references complete with a working model railway choo chooing the perimeter of the main bar. Among the red and white Danish flags hanging from the ceiling were photos of past patrons with a tally paddle indicating they had completed the beer challenge.
You simply ask the bar staff for a discount stamp card, every time you purchase their signature house lagers you get the paddle stamped, there are two tiers to the challenge. Drink 17 and you get a silver, 27 for gold. Complete the challenge and you have your photo taken and hung from the ceiling, some competitors have completed this in one sitting, however they do permit a multiple return to complete the challenge.
The morning after the day before.
After a late night of thrills and Pils we dissolved a couple of Berocca’s into water bottles and set off on the morning commute to locate the bike hire place and set off into the unknown, rocket blind into dark.
Taking the train out of København H station to Klampenborg station is a 19 minute journey through the suburbs of Copenhagen. Seeing how people live is fascinating viewing. The cycle hire company was prior arranged through numerous searches and eventual email exchanges, sharing inner leg sizes to gross tannage of the cycling companions. Communication was always prompt and concise in a very friendly way and nothing appeared to be too much trouble.
Upon arrival we were faced with a very short, hungover walk from the station platform to the Café Parforce. The excitement was overwhelming; we were like a couple of school boys!
The Café is cleverly conjoined and owned by One Way Cycle tours, an ingenious layout, which encourages you to walk through the café before entering the cycle shop. Our eyes both locked, not on each other, but on the wine fridge, where perfectly chilled vino, adorned with bike labels beckoned us over like a scene from Alice in Wonderland, “drink me!” Coincidence, I think not. A wine for all occasions!
Waiting for us all shiny and beautifully maintained were our gravel bikes complete with pans and SPD pedals, the seat setups were to the exact mm requirement for Cliff 6’3” and Franco’s 6” 4 frame. The proprietor casually asked if we needed any further equipment. He had prepared a selection of tools and tubes, bottles and helmets. Glancing beyond the bikes in this brilliantly equipped business, our minds wander back to the beautifully loaded wine chiller, ‘Ja Tak!’ was the synchronised response.
“Also would you like me to safely stow away your hand luggage?” ‘det her er smakt’ (this is beautiful).
With our steeds beautifully locked and loaded, we pause with a Tuborg Gold and think about the four-day adventure ahead, complete with a nice chilled bottle of rosé the selection was easy. It had a bike on the label, so we headed for lækre lokale snacks I caféen. It was truly one of life’s magical moments to reflect on just being in the moment. The owner, not aware of our hippy and carefree approach was keen to pass on his wisdom on cycle routes in and around Denmark, we reluctantly mentioned our plan was to eventually head into Sweden, from fear of causing offence, voiding insurance or breaking local customs before even stepping on a pedal!
We know what he was thinking, why would you need to go there – THIS is Denmark! but of course, he just casually turns his head and says “ja intet problem”. Rolling from the station heading for route 152, we experience our first glimpse of Sweden across the Øresund, swimming is not an option, we are no Aquamen and this is not Iron Man. Our final leg will see us rolling through the hinterland of this very stretch of sea. Heading south towards Copenhagen, the road consists of a 4 lane highway, dedicated cycle lanes and pedestrian pavements in each direction.
At no point does the traffic share a space with a cyclist or pedestrian, ‘is the bike low on air?’ No problem, random street traffic lights have integrated pumps at regular intervals. Traffic light systems operate independently for cyclists and road vehicles, each traffic light has a raised curb and long handrail for cyclists to hold on to and remain clipped in.
‘If Carlsberg did cycling…’
The route for this leg is 50km approximately 3 hours, the plan is to dissect the city and head for the small seaport and market town of Køge 38 km south of Copenhagen.
Travelling is all about the journey, not the destination, so the trick is not to focus on the end goal; embrace everything, and soak in the surroundings. If you see a cafe, stop, if you see a bar, stop, you will discover local places that the guidebooks miss and you start to create your own rough guide.
The weather at this point was a warm slight headwind, 20 ºC, and wall to wall blue sky, the cycle highway was spotlessly clean and free of detritus.
Cycling two abreast we were able to roll at a nice cadence (pedal spinning speed) our minds were free of life’s stresses, just simply enjoying our own company, the company of our new rented companions and the Smukke omgivelser (beautiful surroundings).
Hauling the luggage in our double pans at first felt a bit alien as the balance of the bike feels different with every swagger of the pedals, but you soon get used to it and the thought that everything you need is strapped to the bike giving you the sense you are now a nomad or a Viking on dry land in complete control of your destiny.
Warning: Please ensure your pans are secured, if not you may find yourself skidding and grinding dramatically to halt, almost snapping a few spokes in the process.
Copenhagen just loves to add the extras when you think it can’t get any better, if you feel like a lost mariner the sight of the Tuborg brewery will just tickle you and the need to let out a chuckle at the audacious lighthouse is unsurpassable.
Advertising doesn’t work on us, but we do fancy a beer…
Normally when entering a built up area on a bicycle you would start to feel stressed by the increased volume of traffic, and the Merthyr Tydfil drains, you know the ones, they lie in a vertical plain, hoping to trap your front wheel and send your hurtling over the handlebars, but not in Copenhagen, the clear segregation of vehicular traffic, the considerate city street furniture and the total respect of cyclists leaves you confident and stress free.
Denmark is famous for a number of things, winning the Euros in 92, a number of legendary TdF winners, and beer to name a few. Now we are not suggesting that beer and bicycles are the sole reason for our first, of many European trips, but for us the 2 go hand in hand. Beer, Bikes and Banter.
Having now cycled 20km (maybe less), we need to keep our pips peeled for a stop station suitable for refuelling and assess the next stage of the route. Following the 02 route through the city an iconic image entered the mind’s eye, a quick gobbledygook shout to Christian to get his attention, who only really understands that kind of command, his dialect is a hybrid of Hengoed & Cardiff, classy guy!
We found ourselves cycling down the opposite side of the infamous Nyhavn canal, faced with one of the most colourful and iconic streets in the world.
Pushing our new loves through the heavy lunchtime tourist door traffic, one spectacular view after another, two perfectly placed dining spaces appeared at the Havfruen Restaurant.
The Havfruen is a seafood bistro located directly on the canal in the historic and colourful district Nyhavn in central Copenhagen. The seafood restaurant works with local fishing companies and boasts of fresh, locally caught fish and seafood. So fresh I swear a king prawn winked at me!
The Crazy Chaotic Commute
Copenhagen is a world-leading cycling city with more bikes than people (around 675,000 bikes to 120,000 cars in central areas), boasting extensive infrastructure like 397 km of bike paths, and seeing over 49% of commutes to work/school done by bike, thanks to dedicated infrastructure, cycle bridges (like the busy Dronning Louise’s Bridge), and a focus on making cycling faster and more convenient than driving. We effortlessly leave Copenhagen, where the bike is royalty. Cyclists take priority, and everywhere you go there’s a bike lane. The locals race past you with ease and elegance.
We love this city
Heading back onto the 02 route heading south out of the city heading for Køge, the next 38km were all that separated (strong) beer and snacks. We should point out the navigation medium we relied upon was covered with a 100 year old Garmin, pre planned street familiarity (google maps) and not forgetting the inbuilt talent for the sense of direction CliffNav ® ️A navigation skill that was picked up from Monk Morgan for our Alma Mater, Lewis Boys School, a teacher who could tell the time by the sun!
When faced with the labyrinth of the city streets, even the Garmin noir got lost and was quickly replaced with CliffNav®️. Given the well signposted network, the stress levels remained very low allowing us to join the army of commuters meandering through this charming city. Like a world tour peloton we all rolled from traffic light to traffic light sometimes up to 30 riders elbow to elbow. Given the close proximity there were nothing but pleasantries exchanged. A young commuter plucked up the courage to ask us in Danish what we were doing? He, like the others, was intrigued to know why we were wearing the retro Danish cycling shirts.
A chorus of “Det er genialt, tak”, “that is brilliant thank you” the look of respect from our fellow General Classification Commuter riders made us feel like we belonged to their far from mundane journey home to their loved ones, whilst we were soaking up the amazing customs and culture.
They say to truly enjoy travel you have to immerse yourselves in the local customs and cultures, not looking for the nearest Irish pub or a cafe serving a fry up and showing reruns of Only Fools and Horses or Basil Fawlty beat a British car to death with a twig! Not that we are against either of the latter, there’s a time and place for everything. This is adventure time! It was at a set of lights where my point came to fruition, standing out in our peloton was a local riding her elegant bicycle home from what we assumed was a relaxed Danish day in the office.
The Glistening gold horse riding helmet caught our eyes for different reasons. The Danish are clearly a stylish race, and the golden bonnet was very much at home.
What was amusing was the fact Christian has the same dressage hat in Aqua Mist, purchased a year earlier – Always the trend setter, the Andre 3000 looks was the obvious way forward! The girl was pleased to hear this, turned to us, laughed, and as Christian recalls she winked at him in a kudos sort of way, personally I have no recollection of that!
As the route headed further south and the cycle route signs indicated we were on our way to Koge, waving goodbye to the princess Anne-Marie we joined route 151 heading for the hinterland of the Køge Bugt.
As the city landscape fell away, a glance up saw the picture of a perfect big blue sky, grab these moments with both hands and savor every second, remain in that moment, and allow the toils of everyday life to drip from you. The speed started to increase with the reduced number of lights and getting used to hauling the extra weight. Now we know how Cliff feels every day! With the lighting still very much in the bottle, the next few km were spent riding at a high tempo chatting about nothing and everything. Just enjoying the kind of freedom only a bike can bring.
Køge was only an hour into our future, we took the Steven Segal approach and made an executive decision to look for a suitable location to stop and enjoy the fruity and pungent Artisan wine we had been forced into buying. With the Viking Gods on our side, we spot the Mosede Fort, just left of the highway 151. With bike access to the rocky beach, it was the tranquil place to celebrate what had been a perfect day.
With the wine safely decanted into The Charlatans, sort after and now lost forever ‘How High’ camping mugs, a toast was made; to life, friendship, family, travel and cycling Cheers.
Fully rested and refreshed, we continue southbound, a seemingly peaceful roll into Køge, as the darkness starts to fall, the weekend vampires start to appear. Don’t fear, it is just a friendly term for a small peloton of MAMILS flying past at a speed without so much as a hej! It has been scientifically proven, that a wave or smile to a car that has stopped to let you cross can be uplifting to all involved, it’s also an unwritten rule, the same is for acknowledging a fellow cyclist is a must in any culture. Not one to turn down a non-existing challenge, Cliff is off in pursuit of the horde of vampires, high on bravado, to quickly attach on their draft and let them tow him at speed for a km. much to Franco’s delight.
Welcome to Køge!
The streets of Denmark are clinically clean, a discarded pocket sprung mattress, usually at home on the back streets of Nelson, was totally alien in Denmark. Franco remarked that it’ll be gone by the morning, he was right. Now it’s worth a reminder at this stage the only plans that had been made for the trip were the flights, first nights accommodation and the bike hire. The rest would be on the fly wherever we finished up each day, now that might appear risqué but trust us there is no shortage of hospitality and accommodation, or so we thought. Leaving the main cycle route heading into Køge and our first taste of the cobbles led us to the RICHTERs Ølstue bar, the day was warm, pleasant, the night was closing in and our throats were dry!
A traditional looking Alehouse caught our fancy serving strong Danish and Belgian beers with a “Varm behagelig” interior. We opted to sit outside and watch the world go by, while we hunted for suitable accommodation. Lazily and frantically scouring the likes of Booking.whatever and AirBnB we hit gold.
The family run Centralhotelletr was across the street and available with bike storage and a Danish breakfast included, any sensible traveller would check in and take a warm shower then head for a hot meal. We’re not that sensible , we nailed check-in, but we then decided to ride around the cobbled square to increase the daily km and sample local beverages from a centrally placed bar on the historic square – Everyone loves a historic square!
Do be square! Visit Denmark!
To be continued…
